Sunday 14 July 2013

Falling off the Couch 從沙發上掉下去





Looking for travel accommodation? You have more choices than you think you do. From 5 star hotels to homestay, from WWOOF to Couchsurfing, these various kinds of accommodation are after travellers' binoculars, giving you what you are looking for. If you have realized that travelling has become a trendy tag of your lifestyle (or, who you are), Couchsurfing may have well become a hot choice of accommodation. Surfing on couches and it makes you (feel like) a local. That's true, but it may not be all that you could try out to mix with the place.

People begin to chase after the concept of "authenticity" in the 21st century. However, the fact is that the more we want it, the easier we get lost and end up finding ourselves with illusions of authenticity. Same for travelling. Chinese artist Li Gang seems to understand this well. Brochure of his exhibition Ruins states, "(J)ust like the visitors' impression for the remains of ancient buildings, what he sees is not the remains themselves, but the cultural imaginations wrapped up by all kinds of languages." Tourists flock to the Forbidden City for the splendid palace. My mother, as well, said something like that to me while I was at Beijing," (H)e who does not reach the Great Wall is not a true man." She could not care less about why Chairman Mao says that but she just wanted me to join the crowd and feel how magnificence this place is. Anyway, what I really see is the actual palace and the Great Wall, the architecture itself, when I get rid of packaged-illusions. Sadly, we are always living in illusions.

There is no doubt that Couchsurfing marks a new trend in travel accommodation. Like homestay or WWOOF, Couchsurfing also markets itself on localness, except that it involves no money or laboring for exchange. Instead, it emphases on cultural exchange which cannot be measured by money. In fact, there are two things that worth noticing: the first one is the concept of "couch". Couch, a symbol of modern homes, according to luxurious magazines. If we go beyond the symbolic meaning, it reminds me of the reality that not everyone literally has a couch at home. By that, I mean, back to the basic, Couchsurfing may not be able to reach the people whom do not literally have room to host. As in Hong Kong, those who live in so-called "cage homes", cubicle apartments, sub-divided and partitioned units do reflect lives of the lowest social stratum, but it is not easy to get into their lives through Couchsurfing. It brings me to the other thing, which is that only netizens, rather than all citizens, gain the pass to this but I believe that those who aren't inside the pool of Couchsurfing also got interesting stories to tell. Is that what you are looking for? 

This is the story of an ordinary man I met in Xian. It goes like this... I missed the last bus to my host's place and this motorbike drive gave me a ride home for 20 yuan. He talked a lot about himself during the journey. A cook, almost 30, single, he told me how hard he managed to survive in this city and how materialistic the woman he have encountered are... The day after, my friend and I went to his workplace and tried his knife-shaved noodles. Who would have thought that I would become his guest days later, just by asking. He is a rural hukou-holder from a small county near Xian and he came here a year ago. Working at a small noodle restaurant as a cook, he earns 4000 yuan a month and sometimes take passengers on his motorbike after work to make extra money. He rents a 100-square-inch room in Jixiang Village for 500 yuan a month. Sun beams enter through a tiny window, the only window in his room that makes the air less stuffy. The shared bathroom and kitchen space for an entire block entails the hygiene condition, as it usually does. If you ask me when do I really get to know this guy, the answer would be the moment when I saw children's cloths and toys in his room. He has a 10-year-old daughter who was, at the time I came, enjoying her summer holiday at hometown. The mother of her was his ex-girlfriend, more than 10 years ago. With unplanned pregnancy, the two of them wanted a marriage but the girl's parents were strongly against it, all because he can't afford the dowry of 500,000 yuan that they deliberately asked for and because they are urban hukou-holders. The mother ended up giving up custody of the child and the daughter was what he has to remember that relationship. 2 years ago, he seemed to have been married, or not? A dowry of 30,000 yuan, an extravagant wedding, a wedding certificate... Nothing went wrong, except that his bride was wedded to someone else. He told me it constitutes a marriage fraud and he has already filed a lawsuit against her. Now, his only wish is to have his daughter grown up happily.

A friend of mine is a social worker graduated from university 20-odd years ago. Once when she was travelling on her own, she was invited by an old local woman, whom she met at a remote village in China, to be her guest for several nights. There was no Couchsurfing at that time, neither personal profile nor references to look at. It is how you feel about this stranger when you talks to her/him that decides whether you are going to trust her/him, to spend another minute with her/him or to stay with her/him. This is how we get to know others. Isn't it?

從星級酒店到民宿、青年旅舍,從打工換住宿到沙發客,旅遊的落腳點選擇愈來愈多,當中也反映了旅人所追求的不停在變。如果你同意旅行是潮流,那麼當一個沙發客可能是目前最潮的住宿方式,住進當地人的家,做個本地人。有一天,我從沙發上掉下去,卻發現另一面的世界,同樣有趣同樣真實。

美好的廿一世紀,既真實又夢幻,我們追求真實性,結果卻墮落在假想的國度中,旅遊也是這樣的一回事。就如藝術家李綱在其展覽《廢墟》中所表達的,「正如觀光客面對古建殘存,他所看到的並非廢墟本身,而是各種話語包裹出的文化想象。」北京故宮每日人頭湧湧,全因我們渴望一睹真實的,親身感受古代中國的輝煌一頁,這正正是建構出來的想象,又如毛主席的一句「不到長城非好漢」,毛所言之豪邁胸襟或已被世人遺忘,但我們仍湧去長城,為著當一條好漢?狂妄的假想容不下純綷的真實,而我們一直游走在幻象之海裏,隨波逐流。

沙發,象徵現代人的家,給旅人一種真正融入當地生活的一個家的感覺沙發客(Couchsurfing),無疑跳出了以往住宿的框框,從單一的酒店,發展至家庭式經營的民宿和打工換住宿,打的都是當地牌,沙發客算是當中最純綷的,擺脫了金錢甚或勞動力交換的羈絆,只講不能量化的心靈上與文化上的交流。其實,同時有兩點值得細看:第一點是假如沙發是多於單純的象徵性意義,而是指容納多一個或幾個人的空間,那它給我的一個指向就是現實中並不是每戶人家都有條件提供「沙發」的一個畫面,以香港為例,住板間房、劏房或租床位為家的人反映了香港某些階層及群體的生活,但他們提供不了「沙發」;第二點是沙發客這玩意只有在日常能與電腦為伴的才有興致投身其中,聯繫來旅遊的人,充當導遊、交個朋友。沙發客是個很有意思的網站,可它能夠湊成的拼圖並不完整,缺了的那塊會是你在尋找的嗎?

想起在西安的七月,我做過這樣的一個決定。錯過了末班公交車,我坐上非法載客的摩托車把我送到宿主的家,在那半小時的車程裏,摩托車司機在訴說他自己的故事:快三十歲、單身,他如何努力在社會生存,而他遇到的女人又是如何拜金...沒想到的是,數天後我成了他的沙發客。他是西安小縣城的農村人來西安工作了一年,白天是刀削面店的做麵師傅,月薪四千,晚間偶爾開摩托載客賺點外快。翌日,我和朋友去品嚐他的手工麵;一問之下,我更成功「進駐」他家,一住就住了五天。他住在吉祥村,房間大約一百平方呎,月租五百,那一扇小窗透不進多少陽光,空氣也不太流通,廚房和廁所是整座樓共用的,衛生並不太好。如果問我真正認識這位朋友是什麼時候,大概就是看到他房間掛著小女孩的衣服和床上的玩具那時,因為從在那時候,我才知道關於他的故事:他有一個十歲的女兒(女兒當時正在家鄉過暑假),女兒的媽媽是城市戶口,有錢人家,拍拖時意外懷孕,因為他是農村戶口,也因為他付不起女方家長提出的五十萬人民幣禮聘,所以兩人分開了,女方也放棄了孩子的撫養權;兩年前他也不知道自己是否真的結婚了,付了三萬禮聘、辦了婚禮,也拿到結婚証書,可是沒有娶到老婆,因為老婆已經跟其他人結婚了...婚姻詐騙?他正等候法庭排期審理。現時的他,把精神全寄託在女兒身上,希望多賺錢讓女兒生活過得更好,自己便心滿意足。這是我偶然遇上的他的故事,平淡的生活,卻有像肥皂劇一般的情節。

我認識一位社工,廿多年前她剛大學畢業,獨自到中國旅行,走進偏遠的地區,遇到一個當地的老婆婆,獲邀之下在老婆婆的家住了幾天。那時未有沙發客這東西,沒法看老婆婆的個人檔案,也沒有人給她寫評價,只憑著和老婆婆相處、談話間的感覺,決定她是否值得信任,這人與人之間的信任最初所憑藉的,是在時代的巨輪下被磨蝕得杳無踪迹了嗎?